Ligurian Anchovies

Forget everything you think you know about anchovies. Ligurian anchovies — acciughe — are a completely different experience. Here, they're fresh, delicate, and handled with reverence.

The most traditional preparation is acciughe marinate: fresh anchovies filleted by hand, marinated in lemon juice and white wine vinegar until the flesh turns white, then dressed with olive oil, garlic, and parsley. The result is silky, mild, and almost sweet.

Another classic is acciughe ripiene: fresh anchovies stuffed with a filling of breadcrumbs, garlic, marjoram, and Parmigiano, then baked or fried. They're served as an antipasto and they're incredibly addictive — it's impossible to eat just one.

The anchovy fishing tradition in Liguria goes back centuries. The fish are still caught at night, using lights to attract them to the surface — the same technique used since Roman times. The best come from Monterosso, in the Cinque Terre, but the ones from the Genovese coast are excellent too.

Almost any good trattoria will have anchovies on the menu — one we love is Zimino, in the old town (lunch only, so call ahead).